Corner rather than curve in armhole of sloper

If you have any questions about measurement sets or taking measurements, this is the palce.
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imawinter
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Corner rather than curve in armhole of sloper

Post by imawinter »

Hi, Lori,
(or hi all? All. Hi!)

I've been trying to print a basic sloper with my measurements, specifically the "#5 Bodice with Bust Torso Sloper Set." I was able to print the front with my original measurement set, but its armhole came out with a corner rather than a curve, the back pattern yielded the blue loading bar of doom, and the sleeve pattern redirected to an error screen when clicked. The same thing happened with other slopers.

I know there must be a problem--or problems--with my measurements, but I haven't been able to determine what. Here's a chronicle of my troubleshooting/efforts, all of which caused the front sloper pattern to yield the blue bar of doom (and, accordingly, the rest of the pattern pieces to redirect to error screens):

> I tried increasing/decreasing the front and back mid-armhole widths.
> I tried lowering the armhole drop at the "variables" portion of the custom pattern creation.
> I double-checked my side length measurement. It seemed to be correct, or at least close enough to make a loadable PDF. I therefore did not change it.
> I found what I thought had to have been an incorrect measurement: the back mid-armhole height was nearly double the value of its front counterpart, and clearly impossible upon holding a tape measure up to myself again. Hoping an approximation would give me something to work with, I set it to equal the value of its counterpart in front. Still no luck.
> I thought I had finally found the source of the problem: *both my front- and back-across-shoulder measurements were smaller than the mid-armhole width measurements beneath them.* I do, after all, like the look of a higher-than-normal sleeve cap and a slimmer-than-normal shoulder length, but I could do without them on a sloper: I therefore tried making the shoulders equal to or larger than their corresponding mid-armhole measurements. Still the blue bar of doom.
> I tried increasing my shoulder length (I don't think with any other changes, but it's all blending together at this point).
> I made 100% sure that I increased my shoulder length measurement, increased my front and back across shoulder measurements to equal their corresponding mid armhole width measurements, and ensured that the back mid armhole height matched the front mid armhole height all in the same measurement set. This set still yielded a blue bar of doom in the front pattern piece (and therefore error screens in all the rest).

Perhaps I got myself confused in applying these solutions in conjunction with each other or sometimes forgot to make certain changes while testing new ones. I am probably going to have to take my measurements again--what I've steadfastly been trying to avoid. From what I've checked, the majority of them are correct, or close enough to correct so as to be sufficient. It seems only those measurements relating to the shoulders and arms need to be retaken? Or maybe my preference for high sleeve caps with slim/short shoulder length measurements is the problem?

A final possibility occurs to me: does Patternmaker Pro only allow for 90 degree angles at corners? Back when I was trying to hand draft a bodice sloper for myself, I learned of the importance of "squaring corners," i.e. ensuring all corners are 90 degrees. Of course, one can bend this rule: all that really matters is that corners form a line where they meet, i.e. that they form a 180 degree angle where they meet.

When I was hand drafting and sewing countless muslins (well, five muslins), I was able to achieve the sort of armhole I wanted when the front shoulder point and front high shoulder point were both acute angles and the back shoulder point and back high shoulder point were both obtuse angles. Maybe this was more the result of my (I think mistakenly) using a t shirt as a guide for the shoulder point, but that was the only way I could get it to work. The result was a slim shouldered armhole with a straight, vertical line when viewed from the front or back. Having achieved this, however, I found accommodating the bust with darts too tiresome to resolve and, in turn, never reached a point where I might have hand drafted sleeves. I was therefore extremely excited to discover Patternmaker Pro. I've enjoyed your videos on MD for a long time but could never justify the cost. Now, I hope that once I'm able to create a sloper, I'll be able to achieve my longtime ambition of sewing as many button up shirts for myself as my little heart desires, all in accordance with my painfully specific and uncommon tastes. So, really, thank you so much for sharing this.

I'll probably hop onto Fashioner to try out some tweaks that might make my current measurements work after a good night's rest and maybe a few day's break, but I'd still love any recommendations or help. I suspect I still might not have this under control yet, but there's nothing like writing out a forum post to help one figure out what's going awry, is there? And I hope this is nonetheless useful or interesting to somebody? ...hopefully? If not... ach! I may still need help myself. To be tentatively continued...
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fearless
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Re: Corner rather than curve in armhole of sloper

Post by fearless »

I agree with your assessment, something is wrong with your measurements. That armhole is not correct. The line connecting the shoulder point with the underarm point is a bezier curve. Something must be horribly wrong for it to do that angle.

When you are working with PMP to get slopers out the first time to verify measurements, I strongly suggest that the variables are left "as is". This will eliminate compounding any existing problems.

The Fashioner isn't going to be much help to you, as it uses these same sloper patterns.

If you want, I can take a look at your measurement set and see if I can spot an issue. You can private message me through the forum with the email account you used for PMP and the name of your measurement set.

Thanks,
Lori

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