Just like everything else on Patternmaker Pro, pattern categorization and sizing is a bit different. This is going to be odd if you are used to purchasing patterns or buying ready-wear garments.

All patterns on Patternmaker Pro are drafted based on custom measurements that you supply. For this reason, you will find no size charts or designations. You are what you are and we have no need for labels.

Every sewing pattern is drafted based on a basic block pattern and traditionally there are basic blocks for children, women and men. Patternmaker Pro has seven categories and each draft is designated as one type.

Category / Age Minimum Height Maximum Height Minimum Height Maximum Height
Doll 290 mm 460 mm 11.4 inches 18.1 inches
Infant 560 mm 920 mm 22 inches 36.2 inches
Child 980 mm 1700 mm 38.6 inches 66.9 inches
Teen 1460 mm 1640 mm 57.5 inches 64.5 inches
Adult with Bust 1460 mm 1981 mm 57.5 inches 78 inches
Adult no Bust 1460 mm 1981 mm 57.5 inches 78 inches
Adult 1460 mm 1981 mm 57.5 inches 78 inches

 

These categories pertain to the pattern drafting techniques used by the Patternmaker Pro program. Because Patternmaker Pro allows you to draft a pattern from any category for every measurement set, it has to be able to make conversions.

The primary reason for the categories is scale. When you are drafting patterns you use techniques that involve adding or subtracting a unit of measure (inches or centimeters) in key areas. If an adult pattern called for a spread of 4 inches / 10.2 cm, using that same 4 inches / 10.2 cm on a pattern for a child or doll would break the draft.

Patternmaker Pro uses the height in the measurement set to make adjustments automatically. An adult pattern is drafted for a full grown person, a child would be X percent of that based on their height. That X percent is used to adjust any values needed for drafting.

For example, if a child is 3ft / 914.4mm tall and an adult pattern draft called for a 2 inch / 50.8mm spread, it would adjust the spread down to 1.25 inches / 31.8mm. (914.4/1460*50.8)

This would allow the pattern to draft for virtually any size model, even a doll. Of course, this is the best case scenario and things can go wrong. Always verify your patterns before cutting any of your fabric!

The difference between the Adult with Bust and the Adult no Bust is darts. Bodice slopers (basic blocks) intended for a person with a bust has a bust dart that is an important part of the draft.

The names on the children categories are really general and have more to do with the draft complexity than age. Always trust the measurements, not the labels.

You will notice there is absolutely no reference to gender. There are many women with flat chests. Also, with cosplay, costumes and non-binary gender folks, we think that traditional categories are outdated and limiting.

Pattern companies like to categorize designs based on age, too. I don’t think this is necessary. Children are wearing very complex designs these days mimicking the wardrobes of adults. Also, the simple style lines of children’s clothing can be very appealing and easy to sew. You’ll find no age or gender boundaries in Patternmaker Pro.