After you select a garment and a measurement set for drafting, you'll be presented with the variables for the garment.

Variables are ways for you to customize patterns beyond the default draft. These are changes that you can do to make small adjustments in the pattern. You never want to change the model's measurements to make small tweaks to a pattern draft like adding ease or enlarging an armhole.

Garment vs Fashioner Pattern Variables

When you are creating output for the Fashioner, you select one pattern at a time. You will have the opportunity to change the variables for each pattern as you go. You could set greater bust ease on a front pattern than a back, but be careful. If you drop the armhole on a front and not the back, the side seam will not be the same length when you go to sew them together.

Garments are different, as they contain multiple patterns by default. Any variables on the patterns will be displayed only one time and apply to all the patterns. For example, if you set the general seam allowance to 1/2" / 13mm, this seam allowance will be applied to all the patterns in the garment. 

Default Values

Patternmaker Pro has default values for all variables. The ease variables will generally be set to zero by default. Seam allowances are set according to what makes sense for the garment or pattern. If you don't have a specific reason for changing a variable, just leave it at the default. If you find that the variable default doesn't work for you, you can always change it on a later draft.

Minimum & Maximum Values

You'll note that variables will have a minimum and/or maximum value. These are set to prevent the pattern draft from failing, if too large or small of a value is entered.

Current Variables

Listed below are all the variables available within Patternmaker Pro. These may change over time, so check back often.

Ease

Ease is a value that is added to a circumference measurement to make the pattern a little bigger. Ease can be added as design ease or wearing ease. Learn more about design ease and wearing ease.

Bust Ease

This is a small amount you may choose to add to the total bust circumference. The value you enter will be added to the total bust, which means that it will be divided, with half added to the front draft and half added to the back draft.

Waist Ease

This is a small amount you may choose to add to the total waist circumference. The value you enter will be added to the total waist, which means that it will be divided, with half added to the front draft and half added to the back draft.

Hip Ease

This is a small amount you may choose to add to the total hip circumference. The value you enter will be added to the total hip, which means that it will be divided, with half added to the front draft and half added to the back draft.

Seam Allowances

Seam allowances are used for real world sewing. This is the excess fabric beyond the seam for the sewing machine presser foot to use. It also prevents the seams from unraveling. Learn more about seam allowances.

Important!

Seam allowances are adjusted automatically using the pattern category. If you are drafting a top for a 12" / 30cm doll and the top is categorized as Adult, Patternmaker Pro will scale the seam allowance down. Let's say the seam allowance default is 1/2" / 12mm. It will scale down the seam allowance based on the doll's height to approximately 0.10" / 2.5mm.

If you want to enter a new value for the seam allowance, use a value that would be set if you were drafting for the pattern's category, not the measurement set. If you would want a 1" / 25mm seam allowance if this were drafted for an adult, you should also enter that for your doll. Patternmaker Pro will make the necessary conversion for you. Learn more about pattern categories.

General 

This is the non-specific seam allowance for the entire pattern. In traditional patterns this is 5/8" / 16 mm, but you can use whatever value you want. 

Dart

This is the amount of seam allowance that will be applied to darts on a draft. If this value isn't set, the general seam allowance will be used.

Armholes

This is a specific seam allowance for the armholes that applies to tops/bodices and sleeves. If you have selected a garment with a bodice and a sleeve, the armholes of both will be set to this value. If this value isn't set, the general seam allowance will be used.

Neckline

This is a specific seam allowance for the neckline. This will be applied to the front and back patterns of a garment. If this value isn't set, the general seam allowance will be used.

Zipper

This is a specific seam allowance for zippers. If this value isn't set, the general seam allowance will be used.

Armhole Drop

This value will drop the armhole down and shorten the Side Length measurement (armpit to side waist) in the process. This is an easy way to add a bit more room under the arm. If you are drafting a garment that has a top/bodice and sleeve, this will also shorten the length of the Underarm measurement (armpit to wrist).

Cap Adjustment

This variable allows you to raise or lower the height of a sleeve cap. It does this by adjusting the Overarm measurement (shoulder point to wrist). This will only affect the sleeve pattern, not the armholes of tops/bodices.

Crotch Depth Ease

This variable moves the crotch down on patterns. This can make pants a bit more comfortable and less form fitting. It does this by adjusting the Crotch Depth measurement (waist to bottom of crotch). Learn more about crotch depth.

Crotch Extension Ease

This increases the distance on a pattern to allow for the depth of the inner leg. Learn more about crotch extensions.